Trad climbing cam reviews 3mm). Nov 1, 2024 · The Firefly II is lightweight and has snappy gate action, but the carabiners are on the small side and the narrow 10 mm sling makes this more suited to traditional routes rather than sport climbing. The Totem cam offers extraordinary holding power for both trad climbing and aid climbing alike. Its lightweight appeal is due to the Direct Axle Technology, which places each lobe as close to one another as possible. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. 8-23. This technology also helps you set each cam in tricky, shallow, and narrow placements with ease. Slab climbing. A flexible aluminum frame is removable to shed a few ounces, and the hipbelt can be taken off to cut a few more. The difference in service between Metolius and BD is huge. Cams are an important component of most trad racks. 80 cam ( maybe a 2. Short shorts not mandatory. From cams to carabiners, from nuts to tricams. I still carry way more passive pro than most folks I climb with and use it. There are unlimited options and a lot of trad climbing equipment so it can be a challenge to create your first set of gear. I'm pretty sure what I'll be needing for passive pro, however, I'm not sure what I need for active. As a climber ascends they place pieces of gear – like cams or nuts – into faults in the rock, then clip their rope into carabiners that are also clipped to the gear. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Two-star totem review hot take, I know. Oct 27, 2008 · Tri-Cam Set on Nylon: £46. Dec 17, 2024 · As opposed to sport climbing, there are no pre-drilled holes or fixed anchor points in trad climbing. Jan 22, 2010 · My first while in trad climbing was on passive gear only. Explore rock climbing micro cams, cam sets and a range of sizes to suit any crack or break. Here is the (now outdated) Rock Empire Robot Cam Review; “Cams Start at 36. ” Read full review. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of holding power and range. We couldn’t find any comparison reviews on the internet so we hope this will fill a bit of a gap!Pin scars, flaring cracks and fusing seams of rock have long been the bane of the desperate aid-climber or the run-out trad leader, but these Feb 9, 2018 · I'm interested to see how it lines up with everyone else's reviews. 25 1. Trad climbing gives us a special feeling of purity —nothing is arbitrary, no route contrived by a jug just barely off Saved Content. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. That's not a bad thing, though, if you're looking for an inexpensive draw that's best suited for traditional rock climbing. Oddly, small cams are some of the most polarizing pieces among trad climbers. 00 This five-day rock climbing camp focuses on leading single pitch and multi-pitch trad rock routes and rock climbing rescue. Apr 14, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends cams. In my experience they are much more versatile cam for off set placements than off set cams. 7). 75, whereas the Camalots use a 14. I just got . Utilizing a reliable, single-axle design and with a camming ratio of over 2. Jun 3, 2020 · Black Diamond’s impossibly engineered 21-inch Camalot sure was a good April Fool’s joke, but climbers actually use similar-looking pieces of gear for off-widths. 5 days ago · Whether you're seeking a fresh pair of climbing shoes, a top-rated climbing harness, or an extra set of climbing cams, our team of seasoned climbers can help you find the right gear. The Ultra light cam is amazingly light but this comes at a bit of a cost in dollars, strength, and durability. Cams are quick to place, hold exceptionally well, and are easy to clean. Stoppers — where they started and how far they’ve come People using their hands and feet on the rock with rope for fall protection really started to pick up steam in places like Snowdonia in Wales and Tahquitz and Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Oct 20, 2023 · Born from a heart-to-heart with our top trad-climbing BD Athletes Hazel Findlay, Carlo Traversi, Sam Elias, and Babsi Zangerl, the Camalot Z4 is the realization of a dream: to have a single-stem cam that stays rigid in-hand, but flexes once placed. Aug 25, 2015 · The soft alloy does mean that if you are taking repeated lobs on a rough rock-type, they will wear out quicker than cams that use a harder alloy, though for British trad climbing I think you'd be going well to wear them out with any degree of speed, mine still have years of life left in them, even my older one which I got before going to Oct 25, 2024 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. 65 0. Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. The Z4s, especially the . 4 : Sports & Outdoors Building on a revolutionary concept from legendary gear designer, Greg Lowe, Link Cams operate on a simple concept of trisecting a cam lobe so that, as the device is retracted, the cam unfolds and permits an amazing range for a unit of its size. com : Wild Country Offset Zero Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing - Red/Yellow - 0. 5. I saw that there are a lot of sizes ranging from 0. 8 I had the slings on a few of my older cams replaced recently. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Personally, I think the CAMP tri-cam is an invaluable piece of trad climbing protection, and certainly worth investing in. Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. 8mm – 28. July 6, 2015 Update – Trigger Wire & Sleeve Issues Dec 16, 2019 · Value Rating: 9 Durability Rating: 10 Overall Rating: 8. Whether for trad or sport, the improved safety of technical climbing gear through the years has inspired more people to enjoy rock climbing. From placing/removing gear and Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. . Apr 14, 2021 · A few extra safety carabiners for your anchor are useful as well. Here we give the low down on how to get started, in an extract from our new special edition magazine: Get into Climbing. The lightweight and reasonably priced CAMP Photon Wire is a stellar pick if you would rather lighten the carabiner and not your wallet. 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) Start with cams: The majority of experienced trad climbers carry a selection of cams on their rack. Heya I was looking kouba cams since I want to buy some of them for my multi pitch climbs. Jan 31, 2023 · What is Trad Climbing? Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a style of free climbing that does not rely on fixed gear, like bolts on a sport climbing route, to protect a rock climb. If you need to add some new climbing protection to your rack, check out our comprehensive climbing nuts review and climbing cam review. Five stars Jun 13, 2014 · Trad climbing offers an unparalleled sense of freedom. The core of the cam rack for any trad climb. These are some of the widest. 35º for 40. Wild Country Friend Cam Set review Best camming devices for trad climbing Complete trad rack for rock climbers Lightweight camming devices for beginners High-friction cam faces for secure placements Durable climbing gear for outdoor adventures Optimal camming angles for rock protection Dyneema sling benefits for climbing Versatile cam sizes for Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing protection, or “pro,” includes cams, nuts, hexes, Big Bros, and Tricams. Even talk with other climbers to see why they like the cams they own. I wrote a number of other articles on the Alien cam if you want some more information about the new design and the issues experienced: June 16 2015: Field Tested – Alien Evolution Cams. Oct 5, 2017 · Background info: I've been climbing on each of these cams for several years, except the Totems, which I've been climbing on for 10 months, and the Wild Country, which I purchased only a few weeks ago but used many times on a recent week-long climbing trip. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack Feb 2, 2024 · In this article, we discuss the best cam sets for trad climbing, backed by reviews from the climbing experts and the consensus of the climbing community. The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. ) and also from your head hitting the rock if you fall. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. Learn more about climbing helmets. 25 to 7. Besides the fundamental climbing skills commonly used in sport climbing, trad climbing calls on several movement skills that a climber is unlikely to have acquired while clipping bolts. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. 3mm. Second loop from the front placing cams front to back on the loop I start with: Metolius Ultralight Master Cams (ULMC) sizes 00, 0, and 1 all on one carabiner. Sometimes in sport climbing, the only way up is to push grades. 75 I have totems down to . Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. 8 1. Some climbers try to get by purely on nuts, but small cams are useful as multi-directional pieces, or just when you’re pumped. 2″-0. Trad Climbing Gear > Cams This article about climbing cams is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics . For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. If you have other climbing friends with different brands of cams in their rack that you can try, go and do that. Someone once said that friends don’t let friends climb slab. Oct 4, 2019 · I n 2015 Rob Greenwood reviewed the Totem Cams. The same camming angle of 13. Extendable slings are great in this setting. Dec 15, 2023 · Cams. There is a reason why cam brands like Totem, Black Biamond, DMM, Wild Country, and Metolius are so popular. Aug 29, 2022 · Trad Climbing, auch bekannt als Traditional Climbing oder Clean Klettern, ist eine Form des Kletterns, bei der der Kletterer seine eigene Sicherungsausrüstung in Form von mobilen Sicherungsmitteln verwendet, um sich während des Aufstiegs an natürlichen Merkmalen der Felswand zu sichern. Add Cams. I'll be getting a set of stoppers and hopefully a couple cams, too. I actually recently was able climb with a pair of these Merlin cams so here's my review. 4mm, DMM 14-21mm, WC 15. Mar 26, 2015 · The biggest new features that stood out to me are the narrower head profile and the drop in weight. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. The options may be chosen on the product page Crack Climbing Clinic In this review Jaz Morris discusses what he’s learnt about different models of offset cams during a long season trad climbing on North American granite. Jan 12, 2014 · I'm starting to build a trad rack tomorrow. Insert the cam into the crack and release the trigger to allow the lobes to expand and contact the rock. If you find yourself excited about wide climbing, then you’ll need some big cams! Camalot™ Z4 Offset - Black Diamond Equipment Aug 6, 2018 · The Camp Supernova harness weighs 12. Head: The head of a cam is where you will find the lobes. Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to anchor you or your rope to the rock, and to arrest a fall. Nov 17, 2010 · Also, don't forget to check out our Best Climbing Cam Review. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. Trad Protection The leader places trad gear (protection) in cracks and fissures as they climb up. 5 to 2, one or two #3s and possibly one 4 (BD Camalots), a single or double set of finger sized and smaller cams, a complete set of stoppers, a good selection of micro stoppers, and 8-14 alpine quickdraws (double length sling with two lightweight wiregate carabiners). They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Trad climbing cams to build up your trad rack from Kouba. 95” This statement, taken from Rock Empire's website, could stop a trad climber's heart and simultaneously empty his wallet (they're so cheap, I can afford more!). Dec 19, 2019 · So what makes up a standard trad rack?It's not precisely defined, but it goes something like this: A double set of cams from . Due the unique holding power and double stem they are ideal for traditional climbers who are looking for that piece they can rely on in a “not so good placement”. There are Oct 28, 2016 · These are ideal for parallel-sided cracks, and since the contraction amount varies, each cam fits several different crack widths. 99 Sizes 0. Editor's Note: Our belay device review was updated on May 5, 2025, to share some tester experiences using these devices. 99% of real world trad lead falls both cams will function safely. BD: big cams. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. Jun 5, 2024 · Carabiners. Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. Trying to master my gear placement though. 1 and 0 Z4 a couple weeks ago so can't give a fair review yet, but they seem to be really nice and have already come in very handy for thin, shallow seams. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. 5 and 5. The Omega Pacific Link Cam uses a one-of-a-kind triple-axle design to provide a greater expansion range than any other camming device on the market. Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. There are certain crags where they're the first cams on my rack but mostly they stay in the pack. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. Duration: 4 months --Ratings--Value Rating: 8Durability Rating: 9Overall Rating: 9 Full Review: The Totem cam is likely the most versatile piece of climbing protection on the market Rock Climbing Development Series: Level 2 $ 1,349. Some prefer to use half ropes when trad climbing because of the drag, but that’s also personal preference. Trad routes don’t have bolts on them like sport and indoor routes. However, such placements should be avoided if possible because the force exerted on cam components and the rock is greatly increased, which could lead to rock/cam failure or simply a small slide Feb 25, 2021 · The Future of Sport Climbing vs Trad Climbing. I have a set with me when trad climbing, winter or alpine climbing. Wild Country Zero Friends Wild Country Zero Friends cams. In your opinion what are the must have sizes for start and the not so important ones? I think that a Hella big cam like a 7 would be hardly used where I climb. “It’s like they’re literally biting into the rock,” a tester commented of the wide, skimmed lobes, which adhered extremely well to granite, sandstone, and basalt. So first thing first; I do not recommend getting the UL in the 0. Movement skills used in trad climbing. They call it the Range Finder system. In your opinion, what cam sizes are the most crucial to have at an early stage of trad climbing? 200$ for both stoppers and cams. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. 10 and 2. I went to the climbing store and the "expert" employee recommended to never get doubles in the same brand of Cam. Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. com FREE DELIVERY and Returns possible on eligible purchases Aug 29, 2022 · Trad Climbing, auch bekannt als Traditional Climbing oder Clean Klettern, ist eine Form des Kletterns, bei der der Kletterer seine eigene Sicherungsausrüstung in Form von mobilen Sicherungsmitteln verwendet, um sich während des Aufstiegs an natürlichen Merkmalen der Felswand zu sichern. 5, #0. Most regular cam ranges - think the DMM Dragons, Black Diamond Camalots or Wild Country Friends - start with a smallest size range of roughly 14mm - 22mm (BD 13. Mar 13, 2018 · Amazon. C4 size . They use our innovative bi-color system to ease size selection and utilize doubled UltraTape slings so you can clip in at three different lengths. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. 35) and two cams that were larger that 1. Feb 25, 2020 · Big cams #4-#6 Otherwise known as ‘wide gear’, these cams are more expensive than most. Want more in-depth training? Internationally certified mountain guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin will teach you the fundamentals of trad climbing in our Intro to Trad 8-week online course. From placing/removing This article compares the basics of trad versus sport climbing. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. Anatomy of a Cam. The Alien X Cam is a classic, reliable and well made micro cam for all your trad climbing needs! Hand-made in Barcelona, this cam retains its original character while still offering improved performance and finishes. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. 0 on nylon packaged for counter display Tri-Cam Set on Dyneema: £54. Up through the "old days" of the 1980s, trad was simply known as climbing. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. My favorite feature on the Friends is the extendable sling. May 19, 2023 · Check out our picks in our best climbing harness review. Dec 6, 2019 · Value Rating: 10 Durability Rating: 10 Overall Rating: 10 Location of Test: Oregon Rock Duration of Test: 1 year Product Name: Friends Product Brand: Wild Country Best Use: Traditional Rock Climbing The Full Review: The Wild Country Friends are my go-to cam. The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. To place a cam, unclip the appropriate size cam from your harness or gear sling and pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot May 8, 2015 · For those wishing to use it trad climbing, this is the perfect cam for marginal/insecure placements and a joy to use and place. Sep 8, 2020 · It's worth defining what we've considered to be 'micro' cams in this review. Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Dec 21, 2020 · Tad McCrea used the Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams on 20 big routes in the Sierra Nevada Range this past summer and he was very happy with their light weight and performance, especially for the Double Sling design that allowed him to carry less gear for extending placements. In general, traditional climbing can be more challenging than sport climbing or bouldering because placing gear requires more mental acuity in determining the best pieces to use for protection as well as ensuring they are properly placed. 14s using trad gear, the rule of thumb for trad climbing is to select climbs that are at least 1-2 grades below your on-sight (outdoor) lead climbing ability. 0 on Dyneema, anodised finish matches the tape colour of the original Tri Cams for ease of identification 4 days ago · We love these guys for nearly any trad climbing use, from racking cams and stoppers to clipping the rope through extended runners or even building multi-pitch anchors. The companies that make cams are: Black Diamond, DMM, Fixe, Metolius, Totem, Trango, and Wild Country. The seemingly 'standard' camming angle is 13. After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. One other piece of good news for those wishing to get a long life out of their Totem, you will be glad to hear they operate a repair service . 8 ounces and is constructed using a Modified Edge Load technique. Sending a hard sport climb is satisfying, but trad climbing offers a feeling of accomplishment unmatched by clipping bolts. Make sure to get a few longer draws to help combat rope drag. As you shop for cams, pay attention to the number of cam lobes, stem design, number of axles and the expansion range. From left to right they are: Wild Country New Friend, Black Diamond C4, Totem Cam Nov 18, 2016 · To learn more trad climbing skills, see the rest of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. 4 ULMC size 3 C4 size . The interior of the waistbelt has a split webbing design, with the upper webbing contouring around the top edge, and the lower webbing contouring through the middle (as opposed to the bottom), to prevent it from cupping or contorting. The head of the cam is 20% narrower than traditional Aliens, making them even more effective at fitting into shallow crack placements. Apr 14, 2020 · Read full review. What Is Trad Climbing? Trad climbing is any climbing that involves removable gear. Related: Best Climbing Gear of 2025 Sep 12, 2019 · Trad is rad. The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. If you are trying to do things on a budget, for fat fingers size and smaller you could go with Metolius Ultralight Mastercams, which are terrific small cams and often can be found on sale to bring you under $60 a cam. Aug 12, 2017 · If granite or basalt trad climbing is your thing the Alien is hard to beat. Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. A simple tube style belay device or an assisted breaking device designed for one strand of rope is often unsuitable for many situations common with trad climbing in Australia. Oct 18, 2021 · Trad Climbing is the more traditional form of rock climbing where the protection from falling is placed into the wall by the climber. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Find the best climbing cams from Black Diamond, DMM, Fixe, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Totem, Trango, Wild Country. Exclusive design which offers superior holding capabilities. My Rack. This really Trad climbing forces me to climb 1-2 grades (or more) below my level, and it is perfectly acceptable to do so, if not expected. sh/wideboyz092115 mistakes when trad climbing which are all The force on your top piece of gear in a lead fall should not be approaching 10 kN unless it is a factor > 1 fall. They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. It opens you up to hundreds of thousands of unbolted routes–including some of the best climbing in the world (El Cap anyone?). If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. All those cams you just bought are going to need to hang from your harness somehow, and a nice set of color-coded racking carabiners will come in handy when you need to quickly grab the right sized gear. It was only after sport climbing took off that a name had to be created to May 29, 2020 · Trad climbing opens up many of the best and most famous climbs in the world. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. May 17, 2024 · Camming devices, aka “cams,” aka “spring-loaded camming devices” (SLCD), are the meat-and-potatoes of every trad-climbing rack. “If Snoop Dog went trad climbing, his cam of choice would be Wild Country’s new Zero Friends, because they’re so sticky-icky. These nuts are the most versatile on the market are our favorite for all-around trad climbing: With its ease of cleaning and notable stability, these nuts make a great addition to anyone's rack but their size run isn't quite enough to stand along on their own Jul 8, 2011 · --Product Information--Product Name: CamProduct Brand: TotemBest Use: Trad climbing, aid. Camalot C4. What makes them great for aid is the ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for a variety of placements and clip-in points. 4. Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. Basically falling below your belay, in that case you should have two other pieces backing up that cam. 5, 1. They protect your head from things falling on you (rocks, equipment, etc. These are the most expensive components in your kit, so start with just one of each crucial size (from 0. Nov 8, 2024 · Part 1—Learn to Climb Trad: The Gear. Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. Probably safe, but also probably kinda junky. Falls were taken. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. 75 and #1 seem to be the most commonly used on the easier trad routes that I usually end up on?) that being said, everyone I climb with has cams, so I didn't need to The state-of-the-art cams. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. A common term used to describe a set of cams is ‘a standard rack’. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Most cam heads contain four lobes, but some—TCUs (Three Cam Units)—contain three. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Cams smaller and larger than this aren't used as frequently, so you can add them later. Cams are easy to place, easy to clean, and when placed properly in good rock are as bomber as it gets. 5 ULMC size 4 Third loop from the front placing larger cams front to back: C4 size . To me, this makes I know nothing about these in general, but tricam-type designs are totally valid protection. Because of the wide range of cams and their range of function, for simplicity, we will focus on general-purpose cams, picking our choices from the large/medium and small range. At GearLab, we've tested a wide variety of climbing gear over the past decade+ and have recommendations for every climber, from beginner to expert. </p> <p>The famous Alien Cams of CCH (Colorado Custom Hardware) were one of the best performing micro cams on the market b Trad Climbing Gear. My local trad climbing area is eldo, so I place these things a lot, and I’ve fallen on them plenty. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips to build your first trad climbing rack. These are about the cheapest cams I've ever seen. 3. And while striving for the next hardest thing can absolutely fuel our stoke, there are days when we look for a different sort of challenge. Though they are a bit pricey, cams are generally very easy to place, which makes them incredibly popular. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. From the removal of the thumb loop to holes in the aluminum triggers, Metolius has pulled out all the stops to make the Mastercams as light as possible. The head profile of the four cam Evolution is comparable to a Black Diamond C3 with three cams. Offsets are great if you need them. 3 to 0. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. Suited to all types of different rock, and will make those awkward placements so much easier. 5:1, Link Cams provide more range per size than any other spring-loaded Nov 1, 2019 · Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. BD merely used what nylon they had in stock that wasn’t “too outdated” for $10/cam. Edelrid Salathe Helmet The Edelrid Salathe Helmet. This means it isn't just sanctioned for aid or cluster placements but is legitimate pro for trad free climbing. Black Diamond Camalot C4 package review Lightweight climbing gear for trad climbers Best trad rack for beginner climbers New features of Black Diamond Camalot C4 Durability comparison of Camalot C4 and Ultralights Climbing gear for advanced rock climbers Unique design elements of Black Diamond C4 Sizes and specs of Camalot C4 package Trad Sep 24, 2012 · I have a standard trad rack and for my larger cams I use BD C4's, there are a few climbs that I have been wanting to get a few doubles in a few different sizes of my cams (#2 and #3). May 11, 2024 · We review the "Flip-Stop" Cam Carabiner Stabilizers from Avant Climbing Innovations, a durable and long-lasting gear enhancement for easy cam clipping Aaron Pardy May 11, 2024 Share on X (Twitter) Share on Facebook Share on Email Share on SMS Free UK delivery for orders over £60 | Buy trad climbing cams online from Sgùrr Shop. Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. Jan 23, 2025 · Buy Rock Climbing Cam Trad climbing gear T-Shirt: Shop top fashion brands T-Shirts at Amazon. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. 5 Aug 19, 2016 · For those looking for the lightest pack with a sleek design that doubles as a follower’s bullet bag, the Trad 35 fits the bill. May 4, 2020 · Compared to single-pitch sport climbing, trad climbing introduces many more belay, rappel and hauling techniques. Feb 9, 2022 · Amazon. In addition Apr 18, 2018 · Totem Cams are a very specialized piece of equipment. 50 (maybe a 0. It was a glowing review as the Totems really are an impressive bit of kit which perform excellently whilst providing something distinctly different to the current homogenous line-up of the mainstream cams - better than a conventional cam both in terms of increased holding power and decreased head width. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. What Is Traditional Climbing? Trad climbing, as it's popularly known, is how climbing was always done until fairly recently. 0, 1. 4 and 0. It’s also mentally engaging, as you must decide where along a route to place certain pieces of gear, instead of just finding the ideal “clipping stance” like you would on a sport climb. For now, let’s focus our efforts on free climbing and the two most simple forms of traditional protection: stoppers and cams. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. Placing Cams. 5 Location of Test: Oregon Rock Duration of Test: 1 year Product Name: Camalot C4 Product Brand: Black Diamond Best Use: Traditional Rock Climbing The Full Review: The Black Diamond Camalot C4 Climbing Cams have been the industry standard cam for quite a long time. Whether you’re a gym-goer or an experienced sport climber, here’s what you’ll need to know to get started as a trad climber. Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. (and yes I am young enough that cams already existed when I started to climb. Pro's . 2 : Sports & Outdoors A climbing helmet is the first thing you should buy when you start trad climbing. Instead, trad climbing involves placing protection into cracks to mitigate the risk of a large fall. The Totem Cams are a radically different, yet wonderfully simple camming device which sticks in placements that other cams can only dream of! The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Red : Sports & Outdoors <p>Micro cams par excellence with narrow head widths and very light in weight. Flex Cams feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. They're so light! The springs are really powerful, this makes bumping the cam and the incidental flailing kicks less likely to dislodge the piece and become possessed. Sizes Available / Specs: --Test Information--Location of Test: Oregon rock: Smith, Broughton’s Bluff, Beacon Rock and more. Size 0. Several cams in the 0. A selection of cams that covers this range will satisfy most of your climbing needs. The following photo shows several of the reviewed cams. Also, since totem makes amazing cams, I bet they can make amazing carabiners that would color match the cams! Just an idea. Do you know what you are looking for in a set of cams? Metolius designed its Ultralight TCU to give you tiny but bomber trad gear that doesn't weigh you down. Unless you are an elite athlete climbing 5. For the price, I'd also say they are the best bang for your buck. The May 7, 2019 · Black Diamond upgrades the most popular piece of trad protection, the Camalot C4, for 2019. I push for new climbers to start on passive gear only. Class-leading expansion range and price. Black Diamond. After testing, we found the new Camalot cams are an off-width climber's dream. 3 ULMC size 2. 75 range. 6 - 12 cams: Cams are expensive, so start with one each of the key sizes: from approximately a half-inch wide to three inches wide. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. These highly sought after cams can be loaded [as rated] with all four lobes in contact with the rock, or for aid climbing with only two lobes on rock. Affordable camming devices and climbing gear from £38 per cam. The functionality of these cams is pretty nice (though honestly not any better than a standard BD/WC cam), however the black totem has a major design flaw in that the load bearing cables that wrap around the lobes protrude significantly when the cam is retracted for placement. It’s also allowed climbers to push the boundaries of possibility and attempt free climbing routes with minimal trad gear placements. I purchased these cams when I was working a project that needed an off-set placement. Those interested in this sport, need quite a bit of trad climbing gear. 40 or 0. In 99. 1/0. Learn More This product has multiple variants. 8-26. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. Jan 6, 2020 · They simply work where cams and other nuts won't. 7º flared crack. 5 camming angle. 50). 5, 2. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. If you’re going to be climbing trad, you might soon start to look at some easy multi pitches to tackle. With the appropriate skills, training, and equipment you really do have the ability to go anywhere. Oct 28, 2014 · Image: Omega Pacific, Link Cam 1. As flaring angle increases, the equivalent cam angle of Totem Cam increases from about 13º (for parallel cracks) to 20. If Snoop Dog went trad climbing, his cam of choice would be Wild Country’s new Zero Friends, because they’re so sticky-icky. 4″ range will serve you well. Black Diamond C4 Camalot (C4) size . You’ll want six to 12 cams for a basic rack. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. 5″ to 3″), and a couple of extra finger-size cams in the 0. Belay and personal safety gear. Jul 21, 2015 · There are many trad climbs, particular multipitch routes with gear anchors, that I would not feel comfortable going up without doubles of at least some of the cam sizes (#0. Apr 10, 2024 · ‘Tier S’ cams !! All I want to use! I would love if there was at least one cam that was smaller than than the 0. I picked these up based on their trustworthy reputation. Apr 9, 2021 · The Totem cam, built is Spain where few splitter cracks exist, is not as well-known as other cams, but they’re a great option for aid climbing and winter mixed. Some swear by Totem cams. 7 ounces (759 grams). They were wrong. Basics of Trad Climbing Protection What Are Cams? Cams are a form of trad protection known as active Sep 30, 2015 · The camming angle of the BD Camalots is a little higher than most of the other cams in this review. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. He did not find any significant drawbacks to the latest version of this long beloved cam . Black Diamond Camalot C4 review Best lightweight climbing cams for trad Optimal strength-weight ratio camming devices Black Diamond C4 sizing guide Durability of Black Diamond Camalot C4 How to choose the right Camalot size Differences between Black Diamond Camalot C4 and older models Top features of the Black Diamond Camalot C4 Camming angle Feb 20, 2022 · They don't have any greater range than most cams, so they can't cover a tapered slot like a true offset. Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. In short, Totem cams eliminate the needs for traditional offset cams, and hold where no other cams Feb 25, 2015 · A single cam typically costs between $30 and $80, depending on brand and size. 2, work great in the pin scars of the Gunks, but when it gets pebbly and weird I find a whole lot of TCU placements that can't be protected by other cams. They are extremely helpful when climbing offwidth, especially if you’re climbing sandstone and there aren’t any small cracks for you to get gear into for a long time. Aug 21, 2020 · UL vs C4. They will hold anywhere from 8-12kN if placed well which is plenty for most lead falls. Perhaps even more impressive is that these cams keep a consistent angle throughout their range so holding power isn't compromised at either end of the spectrum. com : Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing - Silver - 0. Trad climbing and gear placement requires a significant amount of carabiners used for racking, draws, and anchors. Apr 4, 2025 · The lightest cams in our review are the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams; the complete rack from micro cams to big hands weighs 26. video-----About this video:Gear Placement in Trad Climbing:- Sometimes the 1st piece needs to be multi-direction My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. The Omega Pacific Link Cam is a unique entry in the field of traditional climbing protection. They are cheap, lightweight and very versatile. 5 1. Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. The core of any trad rack are your cams. ) It was how I learned and I think it was the best advice I was given. And most cams will last for many years of normal use before needing to be replaced. Mar 22, 2021 · You will probably want to invest in a few small cams. Mar 26, 2020 · Gear Placement on Leadhttps://rockclimb. vmaml iiq gskojf eiqgdtf hcoglb kklfem jld bjv iksarsj iwasrg tzs pbr qrfvjqu siisq oqrgm