Cordelette vs sling The downside is that the anchor has a pre-determined direction of equalization that cannot be adjusted without retying the Cordelette. Characterized by a huge knot joining all connection points together. I'm just doing some couch tests with dyneema & nylon slings. Even on less popular routes where in situ belays might not be in a good state you can get away with a couple of 120cm slings. Depending on the severity of the fall, this could cause internal injuries, break the sling or break your anchor. 5mm 6 mm, 7 mm. Is it something commonly used and if not are there any reason why this would be a bad idea? Apr 13, 2020 · One of the most popular approaches is to bring along a cordelette. Polyester. Thanks to its high-strength band material and contact sewing technique, the handling is super smooth despite the seam area. A cordelette, however, offers a lot of redundancy without the need of two slings, and has no extension in the event of partial anchor failure. It seems to me this should be fine - e. Wrap the sling/cord around the tree, match the ends, and tie a figure eight on a bight to create a master point. ) 2x Edelrid Bulletproof HMS lockers (top roping on steel carabiners will save your rope from aluminum oxidation. 5m for this). Our Mammut Contact Sling 8. Dec 4, 2008 · PROS: The sling tends to stay out of the way unless climbing on slabby ground, and is generally easy to remove if you‘re not wearing a rucksack. You can find runners in a variety of lengths: Short runners: 30 cm/ 12 in; Single-length runners: 60 cm/ 24 in; Double-length runners: 120 cm / 48 in; Long runners: 180 — 240 cm / 72 — 96 in; Quickdraw. When you do this, you’ll want to position the double fisherman’s knot so that it is just below one of the components. Almost totally correct, but any connoisseur of small spike runners and threads will find that occassionally accessory cord works better than tape. 0 is a super lightweight and compact sling optimized for maximum performance. May 23, 2018 · In Freedom of the Hill, they mention cordelette (prussik cord) & webbing. If that’s insufficient, you’d just use the rope - either Will’s method or the traditional British approach and give up on using a guide plate. Oct 6, 2009 · But when looking for this item, I found Cordelette specific, and also Accessory Cord. Alternatively, unfasten the double-fisherman’s bend and tie a figure-8 loop in each end of the cordelette. 1. What about shock loading? I have seen videos of nylon slings breaking quite easily under the strain of factor 1 and 2 falls. A whole new construction technique is used for seamless slings like the Magic Sling 12. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. Mar 15, 2023 · The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. For my shorter cordelettes, I use a 4. 0. So in short, cordalette is more versatile, and often cheaper, but bulkier I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. Let’s start with the most obvious tip: making your own cordelette. If it’s too short, try to add a separate sling to the piece of gear that’s farthest away. If one piece is too far away, simply use a sling to extend it. A cordelette is slightly bulkier than slings or rope, but still easy to pop onto a harness, and it provides versatility and simplicity in various anchor building setups. So in short, cordalette is more versatile, and often cheaper, but bulkier Jun 7, 2024 · Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. Mar 1, 2018 · If you're only doing single pitch, and there are no bolted anchors, just use a cordelette for your slingshot belay. May 28, 2022 · > Less bulky, easier to carry, easier to handle, doesn't need bulky knots and anywhere that you can place a cord you can place a sling but there are many situations where only a sling will fit. The document has moved here. 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. If you fall when attached directly to an anchor with a Dyneema sling or cordelette, the resulting fall will put higher forces on the anchor than if you were attached with a nylon sling. A cordelette is a length (usually around 20 feet) of thin (usually 6-7 mm) cord, tied into a loop. You typically equalize an anchor by using runners or a long section of accessory cord called a cordelette. ) If you would prefer to use a cordelette to equalize the anchor (rather than the rope), but it isn’t long enough, try extending the furthest away piece with a sling. Pull the cord between each piece down, stack the loops evenly (angling . We like the 6mm length the best because of its strength, durability and ease of untieing. Here are some cordelette tips that I wish I knew when I started out on my climbing journey. You can also use an overhand knot to secure your static anchor. Although you can create both a 2-piece quad and a 3-piece quad from the same cordelette, I recommend using a shorter cordelette for bolted stances (those which usually have two bolts) and a longer cordelette for trad anchors. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. But I have also heard that cordelette is much more resistant to abrasion due to its construction. Cordelette: Mostly now seen where an Equalette isn't. If it’s too long, rather than clipping the cordelette loop to the gear, instead pass the loop through one of the the carabiners. A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. Mar 23, 2020 · So I’ve never felt the need to carry a long sling or cordelette. If you’re using an axe with a leash you can often Nov 18, 2016 · Once you reach the belay stance, figure out where you can get three good gear placements, ideally about chest height and close together, but you’ll have to take what you can get. Then attach your quad to those. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. May 20, 2016 · Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. Dec 14, 2021 · You can equalize the anchor through an additional rope of smaller length which is also called cordelette. One way to determine a good length is to coil the loop in half - and then half again - so that the four individual loops are all the same length. Dec 18, 2014 · Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Quads don't make much sense for trad, they're really best for sport. So in short, cordalette is more versatile, and often cheaper, but bulkier Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. While browsing Andy Kirkpatricks site he suggested using 7mm cord as cheaper option, with the added bonus of being able to use it as abseil tat. Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. Dec 18, 2010 · Webbing is surprisingly strong and is sometimes rated almost twice as much than many brands of cord (in kn). The Cordelette was smaller in diameter than the accessory cord by 1mm, yet it was advertised to have a greater load rating than pre-cut accessory cord by about 300-400 lbs Paul there are different materials that can go into a product. Apart from being used as a rock climbing anchor, a cordelette has a few other uses that can make your climbing experience safer and more enjoyable. Feb 11, 2016 · These hybrid slings may offer benefits of both materials – less expensive than Dyneema slings while still being fairly slim and strong. I bought 7 metres of Mammut 7mm cord to use as a cordelette, but i had an idea. Cordelette: Use 18 to 20 feet of 7mm or 8mm nylon cord or 5mm high-strength UHMW polyethylene (such as Spectra or Dyneema) tied in a loop. To create one on the cheap it can be made from 7mm or thicker accessory cord (perlon) tied in a loop with a triple fisherman's knot (as for double fishermans , but with an extra stopper knot on each side). So buying a cordelette to build a quad is kind of like saying you're getting a boat with snow tires. You can easily store this system on your harness. Cord is helpful for producing custom-length slings, like a cordelette, that may be utilised in anchor structure or in friction hitches for rappels and help climbing. Oct 29, 2023 · Edelird 16mm 240cm sling (really any fat 240cm sling, or 2x 120cm slings could work too. Having said that, I like 20-22 ft of 7mm for a cordelette. Cheaper than sewn-slings if you need to leave it behind. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. 5 m (15 ft) piece of 6 mm Sterling PowerCord. Use a double fisherman's knot for Perlon cord or a triple fisherman's knot for the thinner UHMW polyethylene cord. Advantages over Equalette: Just as easy to setup with 3, 4 or even 5 pieces of gear as it is with 2 (making it more versatile for trad anchors or suspect ice anchors). Dec 9, 2008 · The most common was to use 120cm slings to equalize the anchors (either 1 or 2 slings depending on the distance of runners) and attaching the climber to them via their ropes. Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. they seem to grip the rope pretty well. Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about static vs dynamic loading and such. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. In this case, consider equalizing the furthest away pieces with a sling to create two anchor points. The first step to tying an overhand-knot anchor is to clip your cordelette into all three primary anchors. (Some climbers suggest using a 11 or 12 mm Dyneema sling (such as the Petzl Pur’Anneau) rather than a skinny 8 mm sling, which might lessen any slippage, if that's something you're concerned about. This equalization can be self-equalizing or static (secured through a figure-8 knot), as mentioned in the tutorial. How to rig a cordelette with an overhand knot. The cordelette is just a large sling, 6 or so metres in length. Like I said, this is just how I carry them--if I wrapped the dyneema sling tighter they'd probably be more comparable in size, or the dyneema would be slightly smaller (but keep in mind that's comparing 120cm to 20ft). We’re not sure the exact material composition of the polyester that Mammut, Petzl, and Fixe use for their slings (the only brands to list polyester as the material type). Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). 9mm tech cord. Moved Permanently. In this video Sometimes it can be difficult to equalize three or four points correctly, as this uses up a lot of cordelette. Sizing You can also buy this cord in the following lengths 2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm 5mm, 5. There are three lengths you could use for a quad: 120 cm, 180 cm, and 240 cm. Place each piece and clip them together with a closed-loop cordelette (or a series of slings). CONS: The sling can easily become tangled and be hard to remove, especially when wearing a rucksack (always put the rucksack on, then the slings). This way it will be less likely to get in the way of the overhand knot. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. Oct 17, 2010 · The pro cord is made of nylon. It is sold by the foot or in segments: 20- or 30-foot segments are typical spans. Modern sewn slings are a better choice. Sep 27, 2019 · - Can I tie it with a Dyneema sling? According to the video below made by the German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (VDBS), the answer is yes. There are two primary methods for equalizing the anchor: static equalization and self-equalization. com Mar 1, 2018 · If you're only doing single pitch, and there are no bolted anchors, just use a cordelette for your slingshot belay. Runner/ Sling. Dec 7, 2023 · The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. If you're looking to get into multipitch, get ready for a lot of advice on why tying in with the rope is simpler, and generally better. This also makes for a quick and easy way to carry the cordelette. Many climbers bring around 20 feet of cord for building and equalizing anchors, but these cordelettes can be a hassle to carry on your harness. Sep 21, 2018 · If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. The slings would either be equalized as in the case of the cordelette (the sling drew down between each piece and tied in an overhand) or by using the sliding-X technique. The coiled loops together should be the same length as a single shoulder-length sling and should fit over one should in the same manner. A quickdraw is made with 2 carabiners secured to both ends Jan 16, 2025 · Thoughts on cordelette vs triple length sling for the quad? I don't love the bulk of the cordelette if not needed. Tying a cordelette for a quad. See full list on rei. ) You use a long strip of extra rope known as a cordelette. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). Aug 11, 2018 · Top is a 120cm dyneema sling done up as an alpine draw, bottom is a cordalette made of 5. Mar 26, 2011 · Thought about buying a WC cordelette, hopefuly to speed up rigging belays. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Take the triple length sling as anchor material and abandon the quad for trad. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. How to make a cordelette. Oct 24, 2018 · Most of the time your cordelette is going to feel either too short or too long. g. Those four strands should be just the same size as a shoulder sling, so that way it's easy to carry over your shoulder. Go to our climbing sling review to read about the difference between nylon and Spectra and Dyneema. Here is my rule of thumb: have the cordellette just long enough so that when you double it, and then double it again, it is the same length as a single shoulder-length sling. uise aizqw ebzbooq mdkj ozvtsq mqaswk tlaupp xwfm nbkxmtb evncazhl mzrlbq mut ywtqf rqhuohu cadyt