Climbing cam Rock Climbing Cam Build. Enhance your rock climbing gear. Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing #1 Top Rated. This means that the Metolius cams will likely be more durable. Mar 16, 2016 · What remains is a flexible, single-stem cam with a new shark fin tooth pattern and color-coded range finder to ensure proper placement. The axle is attached to a stem with a trigger and trigger wires which retract the cam lobes when pulled for placement in a crack or pocket. Weighs just 10 pounds, and supports up to 300. Apr 10, 2024 · Totem Cam, the state-of-the-art cam for climbing. 3 mm. These highly engineered, sort of affordable, shiny spring-loaded gadgets allow safe passage up cracks narrower than a centimeter up to wide enough to fit your body inside. HB Flexi-fix, Omega Link Cams, Metolius Master Cams; Ultralite Master Cam - $10. Strength: 14kn (all sizes) 10kn (placed passively) Weight: size 0 = 84g / size 4 = 221g. Apr 9, 2023 · It could weaken the cam’s nylon sling slightly. Totem Cam store. The flexible stem and narrow head width allow for placements in awkward spots where other cams struggle. 5, 0. 95 Jun 15, 2020 · Display your love for traditional climbing with this self-assembly rock climbing keychain cam from NiceClimbs. ET. Totem MT manufactures high performance climbing gear. 34" to 1. Without a doubt, cams have revolutionized climbing. Apr 24, 2019 · Yates reslings nearly all cams including Wild Country, DMM, Aliens, Metolius, Totem, and Black Diamond. Common Climber Marketplace is highlights small climbing-related businesses to help spread the word about their work and to help our community thrive. Apr 1, 2020 · In a move to address off-width climbing, one of the fastest-growing segments of the sport, Black Diamond expects the #21 Camalot C4 to accelerate its current market opportunity. Oct 20, 2023 · So, Kouba is a genuine climbing brand and manufacturer, which I think is worth making clear as they are a small brand which many people may not have heard of. The only way to break a cam stop is to fall and expand the head past the stops, inverting the lobes (aka umbrella’ing the cam). 95 All of the rock climbing cams that are currently on-sale at online retailers. Cam Stop. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle. They do not sling cams janky looking cams (the official rule is 10+ years old but that’s more of a guideline). As such, it is vital that you educate yourself about them and what makes them useful and worthwhile. In this video, Julie Ellison, Climbing's gea - We can not resling Metolius Master cams without the thumbloop. This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. This generally refers to a set of 6 cams ranging from a Black Diamond C4 size 0. The The Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. CAMS-A Technical Review (Article circa 1985) by John Middendorf . m. Compare their sizes on cam comparison charts. This is a cam KEYCHAIN and is in no way able to catch a real fall(0kn). Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. If you carry a double set of cams, the weight savings is the same as a twelve ounce canned beverage of your choice. Behold the patent-pending RigidFlex stem. I prefer a four-cam design like the Metolius Master Cam or the X4 that feels more bomber, is less likely to walk, and works in pin scars better. NOTE: All Angel Cams are proof tested in the factory. Brands like Black Diamond and Wild Country offer high-quality cams for safe and secure climbs. The document has moved here. Climbers on Internet forums like to debate the merits of various options. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. Harken® ball bearing 150 cam cleats hold lines securely and release instantly for easy, precise trimming. Falls were taken. . When Fixe took over the production of Aliens big improvements were made to improve the ergonomics and the latest iteration of the Alien Revolution takes things a step further. 1 Climbing magazine is producing a series of how-to videos to demonstrate a number of basic skills and techniques. Whether we’re protecting thin seams, offset cracks, or marginal features, the Totem Cam gives us the confidence to keep climbing, even when the gear gets thin. Original 13. But this is more an issue of etiquette. Jan 30, 2018 · DMM has put a lot of thought into the design of their cam lobes, all the way down to the micro level. At the start of a pitch, always place a solid piece of pro that will resist outward and upward pulls. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. Includes two (2) #10-32 x 2 1/2″ flat head, black zinc socket screws with black zinc lock nut and washer. Cams typically feature three or four curved pieces of aluminum, called cam lobes. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A triple fisher-mans is a bulky knot that Still needs to be checked every time - before, during* and after climbing. 10% lighter yet just as durable as before, the updated Black Diamond Camalot C4 cam features a modern design that improves on tried-and-true Camalots with an optimized strength-to-weight ratio. 79 ounces without the . Sep 30, 2010 · With the wide cam lobes, and awesome range we recommend these cams for bottomless cracks in soft stone (thankfully these two factors tend to go hand-in-hand in sandstone climbing areas). Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Nov 11, 2021 · In this case, return the cam to the manufacturer for inspection and repair. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Light is right, and we feel that all the tweaks and redesigns to make these cams lighter hasn't affected their durability all that much, and we'd recommend these featherweight cams for free climbing or big wall climbing just about anywhere. The Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. On the upside they hold well, feel extremely solid, are easy to place and are very durable. The good news is that modern cams offer excellent value: They work beautifully and will last much longer than your shoes, ropes, or harnesses. 121. Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. 5") - most cams with cable eye or rigid stem . Apr 11, 2019 · Weight. Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. In this harsh environment, the steel parts will also corrode, even if they are stainless steel. Aug 8, 2022 · Know when to use a cam. Tested and proven by decades of climbers, the Wild Country Friend 6-cam set (#0. Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits. 7º flared crack. CE and UIAA certified - Made in Bend, Oregon. 8mm – 28. Weighing in at 27. That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. Want more in-depth training? Internationally certified mountain guides Rob Coppolillo and Marc Chauvin will teach you the fundamentals of trad climbing in our Intro to Trad 8-week online course. Jun 15, 2012 · Cam-hook technique has been honed to a fine edge by Yosemite's speed-aid climbers, but even if you prefer to climb walls slowly, as I do, cam hooking can save you a lot of hassle when aiding thin cracks, as well as protect the rock and win you "clean aid" points. Worldwide shipping. “The action was really smooth, and I had reliable, solid placements with every type of fissure and pod—and a lighter pack to boot,” exclaimed one Eldorado Canyon, Colorado tester. Offset cams are made for irregular crack widths. The stems on the C4 are also rigid enough that in a pinch, you can just shove them in a parallel crack without even pulling the triggers. Find a great selection of Camming Devices for sale at GO Outdoors both instore & online. To see how it stacks up versus the competition, check out our review of climbing cams. 3mm wide. Three more versatile sizes. 35º for 40. Moved Permanently. This page is updated multiples times per day, as we're always in search of the best sales and deals on the best gear. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. So, I made a chart for my own use. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. I rounded all the sizes to whole number of millimeters which gives a good comparison of overlaps and the extra granularity the Metolius cams provide. May 24, 2020 · The softer metal detracts from the durability of these cams but gives us some added confidence as these cams seem to bite into the rock and hold under weird bodyweight placements. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. Price, product page $399. The Fixe Alien Revolutions are the latest iteration of the popular cam pioneered by Colorado Custom Hardware. 3 size), the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams(23. Before sea-cliff climbing, make sure your cams are well lubricated. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. Heel now seated, cam your toe in opposition — placing it under a small roof or lip, or smearing against the wall — and The DMM Dragon Cams are top notch climbing cams with a massive range that allow you to make the most of every placement. Production of the size 1 Dragonfly was a notable achievement as the smallest certified climbing cam. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. Video of Cleaning Cams. The new, redesigned Camalot C4 has now upped the ante, considering it’s 10% lighter yet just as durable as before. Cams and other forms of rock protection are typically certified as conforming to accepted standards of performance by an independent organization (such as the UIAA). -Please Make sure your cams are clean and all older slings removed. The Alien X Cam is a classic, reliable and well made micro cam for all your trad climbing needs! Hand-made in Barcelona, this cam retains its original character while still offering improved performance and finishes. 4mm) DISCLAIMER: Please DO NOT use this on any climb. Born from a heart-to-heart with our top trad-climbing BD Athletes Hazel Findlay, Carlo Traversi, Sam Elias, and Babsi Zangerl, the Camalot Z4 Offsets are the realization of a dream: to have a single-stem cam that stays rigid in-hand, but flexes once placed. These are lighter, smaller, and stronger than anything on the market. Compare the features, sizes, weights, and prices of seven different cam models from top brands. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. I could take the time to change this to be more consistent, but I feel the basic idea gets across either way). Oct 1, 2020 · Learn how to choose the best climbing cams for trad climbing, a versatile and challenging form of rock climbing. The project began with an extensive design process involving reverse engineering a Black Diamond Camalot C4 and custom designing components that were not replicable with available machining techniques. The shape of the cams on a typical camming device is given by the formula: r = e µø. 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. $6 Single loop 4. 7 out of 5 stars. 4mm to 28. Display your love for traditional climbing with this self-assembly rock climbing keychain cam from NiceClimbs. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. Jan 27, 2020 · this is a for fun version of a rock climbing cam which can relatively easily be printed, the only hardware you will need are some cap head 6/32" screws. The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. For those looking for a cheaper cam, or a more modern single axle cam, these are a good choice. Thanks to the indepe Discover top-quality climbing cams like Black Diamond Camalot C4 and Metolius Master Cams. Get the best deals on Climbing Cam when you shop the largest online selection at eBay. The hold needn’t be a bucket or otherwise incut — it can be vertical, horizontal, or slanted, if there’s a feature nearby for the toe cam. A set of these featherweight cams would do well in the alpine or on any expedition where weight is a big concern. The Dragonflies are awesome for free climbing. We also found that the u-stem cams are much easier to clean with a nut tool if they get wedged in there. With increased holding power and reduced walking capabilities, the DMM Dragon Cams particularly excel in slick or soft rock types and in sub-optimal placements. Apr 4, 2025 · Compare the top 10 climbing cams from different brands and sizes for trad climbing. 3mm. Whether the tree you’re climbing is straight or slanted, these 20-inch (each) aluminum climbing sticks with built-in teeth dig in, keeping you securely attached as you go. Aug 30, 2013 · Also, the metal in Cams is harder than than that in Aliens. 4, 0. The gold standard for camming units, Black Diamond Camalots' double-axle design allows retraction of larger cam lobes, giving them a much larger expansion range than traditional single-axle units. 4 – 28. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. This is how AC guarantees proper function and safety of such a complex cam. Apr 9, 2021 · The DMM Dragonfly has been on the market for the past few years and has become one of the must-have micro-cams for thin cracks. 3 or . They call it the Range Finder system. May 3, 2013 · Most full-size cams are rated in the 12-14kN range, though many smaller pieces are rated for smaller forces (often 6-8kN), or are only rated for aid climbing. The product will appeal to all climbers who want to transition into the style of off-width climbing but desire an added safety margin. Sea-cliff climbing presents an added challenge to keeping your cams working smoothly. Their longer, narrower lobes enable placement in challenging cracks and pockets. The “TripleGrip” cam lobes have a raw aluminum finish and a crosshatch pattern of tiny grooves to increase friction and reduce walking in slick rock. In an interview for Climbing No. Range 0. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). While this doesn’t pose a safety issue, it will make the cam harder to use in the future and thus a good candidate for retirement Feb 25, 2015 · Cams are some of the most interesting, useful and well-engineered pieces of climbing gear made. The stemless design offers flexibility, and the option to load with just two lobes makes them versatile for various climbing situations. As per using cord, you have to Always* check the knot. Characteristics: Superb holding pow As flaring angle increases, the equivalent cam angle of Totem Cam increases from about 13º (for parallel cracks) to 20. Find out the best size, depth, orientation and types of cams for different rock types and situations. Jan 30, 2018 · Aid Climbing. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. A. It was a glowing review as the Totems really are an impressive bit of kit which perform excellently whilst providing something distinctly different to the current homogenous line-up of the mainstream cams - better than a conventional cam both in terms of increased holding power and decreased head width. Massive! 12-Inch Rock Climbing Cam Anchor. Kouba makes several models for cam but the two key ones for the UK trad are the Axel Plus and the Flex. This allows you to slide the unit inside a crack. The U-shaped body provides greater durability and unparalleled control during placement and retraction. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. 8 sizes: #00 - 8 Jun 15, 2012 · The basic heel-toe is your building block. A cam is a device that is designed to be placed in a crack in the rock where it then expands to fill the crack and catch the climber in the event of a fall by exerting a force outward on the walls of the crack. According to users, the cam is popular for its direct-bias loading function that enables all lobes to proportionally share the weight - a function that apparently works impressively in real-life climbing conditions. If there’s a chance of an upward pull or a sharp sideways force, consider a cam, which protects in all directions. Free Climbing. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Learn how to place, remove and rack cams for trad climbing in parallel sided cracks. Improves the grip of the cams during the first times it is used. 5″ sling I wanted to compare the Metolius Ultralight Master Cams, Black Diamond Camalot C4s, and Wild Country Friend sizes. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. In comparison to nuts and pitons, cams "actively" hold their position in the rock. Do not bounce test it – this will most likely break the rock or cause your cam hook to The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. Cams are devices with retractable cam lobes that, under the tension of a spring, can be wedged or placed inside cracks of rock; when the camming unit is weighted, the cam lobes apply an outward force against the rock that secures the unit from Sep 5, 2016 · Black Diamond Camelot C4 Cam Sets . To stick with Metolius' Design and shave some weight try Metolius Ultralight Powercam . Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The high-strength aluminum alloy used in cam lobes is very susceptible to salt water corrosion. Characteristics: Superb holding power May 4, 2012 · If you’re getting into traditional climbing, or upgrading your rack, a set of spring-loaded camming devices will be your biggest expense: At $50 to $90 each, you’re looking at $500, minimum, for a modest selection of units. Offset cams are particularly helpful when climbing alpine but can be used almost anywhere. The Alien Revolution excel on granite, whether you're aid or free climbing. Because the fulcrum of a tricam is a sharp point, it bites into soft, wet or icy rock when weighted, making it much better than a cam in these conditions. 75° camming angle - proven op 6 days ago · Bi-color slings differentiate small and large cams of similar color; Sizes 4, 5, and 6 cams have trigger keepers to reduce racking volume; Single stem and double axle design doubles as cam stops; Large thumb loop provides a clip-in point for aid climbing; Sling tags tucked under shorter bar-tack for a cleaner look; Item #BLD00Z8 A friend or cam is a safety device used for securing alpine and sport climbing routes. Jun 15, 2020 · The new RigidFlex stem design also aids in these cam's efficacy while free climbing. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. 3 to a #3 doesn't have the mind-blowing weight savings as theCamalot Ultralights (21. 51 (1978), wondered whether Friends’ use should lower a climb’s technical grade, and whether it would be poor style to repeat a climb originally protected with chocks while using cams. The following discussion assumes a little familiarity with rock-climbing equipment and basic engineering concepts. Shop trad climbing cams online from Trango. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. The Angel cam now comes in two sizes: Size 1 covers 26 to 100 mm, and Size 2 covers 46 to 145 mm. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Apr 20, 2017 · handle that small blue cam carefully they were best when paired with another cam, it was one of the 1st small 4 cam unit. A rigid stem is preferable when placing and removing cams, because it transfers the movement of your hand into the camming head, making it easy to wiggle in or out. Supercams have asymmetric cam lobes giving them almost twice the range of conventional cams used for crack climbing. May 15, 2018 · Omega Pacific Link Cams stand out as offering the widest camming range of any cam on the market thanks to the trisected cam lobes, meaning where another company will only have one cam to fit in a placement the Link Cams may have three cams that can fit the same placement. See all these steps in action! Beth Rodden presents a straight-forward video of the cam cleaning process: Mountain Standards Blog. Introducing our custom designed cam cleat made specifically for one-sticking. Because of this, new units will have a small amount of deformation in the lobes. Oct 4, 2019 · I n 2015 Rob Greenwood reviewed the Totem Cams. From placing/removing gear and Jul 24, 2019 · Climbing cams are some of the most important pieces of protection equipment that you need to buy if you have any interest in rock climbing. net. Dec 19, 2019 · Cams are essential equipment for modern traditional climbing. Stories – Black Diamond Europe Our patented, wax formula gives your cams ultra-smooth performance, and seals out dirt and moisture. Cams. 97 ounces, a set of C4s from . May 27, 2020 · The cam is a wonderful invention. Apr 22, 2025 · Always keep your keys protected with this climbing cam keychain! (Nut keychain will also fit into the "Rock Wall Key Holder!") SIZE: 1in (25. Jun 2, 2010 · The cams feature a u-stum design that allows for ease of handling while simultaneously providing a high clip-in point for clean aid climbing. Rope Cam System for quick, quiet installation of all four sections. Ever since Jardine invented the first fully functional unit (with the proper camming angle) to the climbing community with his introduction of Friends, climbing achievement standards have advanced considerably through the use of superior technology. They stick to the exact same color scheme as Black Diamond cams, which is likely the most familiar cam color scheme in the world, so not only do they mesh seamlessly with those cams, but don't require learning a new scheme. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. My Rack. 4 to #3. . spring-loaded camming device, simply known as a cam in the rock climbing community. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. The six cams cover placements from 7. The leverage of a cam hook exerts a high force on the sides of the crack, which locks it in place. Here is the (now outdated) Rock Empire Robot Cam Review; “Cams Start at 36. 170 (2008), the 1970s rock legend Henry Barber said he still didn’t use SLCDs. Extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. 13. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. When you pull the spring-loaded trigger wire, these chunks of metal retract and make the device narrower. The following project was an exploration into a new realm of machining complexity. Apr 15, 2020 · These cams possess a “just right” stem rigidity for ease of deployment and resistance to walking. All of the cams we tested broke at higher forces than would ever be generated in normal climbing situations. A common term used to describe a set of cams is ‘a standard rack’. 75° Camming Angle | Proven performance places and cleans quickly and efficiently. Sep 8, 2020 · Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. From these details, you can find the best equipment to fit your personal climbing needs and weigh the pros and cons of similar climbing cams. To initiate, first jab a heel onto a likely hold, ideally one of at least heel width. r is the radius e is the natural logarithm base Miniscule cams for narrow cracks and small pockets. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. Seiji Ishii is the Climbing, Cycling, Fitness, Travel, and Powersports editor at Aug 24, 2017 · In 2002, the launched the smallest cam device in the world with the Zero Cams that allowed climbers to protect cracks 5. The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. I climb frequently with a partner who has some old cams and I dread having to use them when we swap leads with his rack. See ratings, pros, cons, and features of each cam model. 4. Plus, it features a modern design that improves on the old tried-and-true Camalots. It goes on wet, and sets up dry. On that note, Wild Country has reduced the number of cams in its line-up with the Helium Friends (by increasing the range and the overlap of ranges between units Oct 11, 2012 · But come on, surely you can admit that today's cams perform a bit better (not just weight. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. 34 Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle. In Depth Guide for the Top 5 Climbing Cams Black Diamond Camalot C4 Cam Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. two screws that are 1in and two which are 3/4 inch. Details: Cams with X-grip texture. Check out our rock climbing cam keychain selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our keychains shops. Outdoorplay has climbing pro covered. bigwalls. 5 Apr 16, 2010 · I don't consider them mandatory for any Yosemite or sandstone routes, but climbers in more pocketed areas often swear by them. The Master Cam stem is flexible but more rigid than other single stem cams like the Alien. 4 size). 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. Nov 18, 2016 · To learn more trad climbing skills, see the rest of our series, Learn to Climb Trad: A Complete Beginner’s Guide. Fast forward to 2011, Wild Country released Helium Friends and a few years later the new Friends. The build-it-yourself kit comes with detailed instructions that are easy and fun to follow, and you'll have your keys hanging in unexpected places in no time. While climbing on a windy day at the City of Rocks in Idaho, our lead tester noticed the finger-sized Master Cams blowing upwards with the wind. Camalot C4. 5 mm wide. OPEN LOOP (4. But if you climb in an area with May 15, 2018 · Ergonomics. Shop now on eBay! May 9, 2024 · Let’s dive into the goings-on about one of the most talked-about climbing cams in the market today: The Totem Cam. Cams are quick to place, hold exceptionally well, and are easy to clean. We really liked the fact that the cams are so light and compact compared to other cams that we tested. 79 ounces, but without a . Shop for climbing cams at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. They will hold anywhere from 8-12kN if placed well which is plenty for most lead falls. This combination of features makes Totem Cams a popular choice for climbers seeking reliable protection in tricky cracks. Their flexibility makes them an excellent piece for pockets and pin scars. 3 ounces), and the Wild Country Friends (22. The lack of a thumb loop makes these cams less than optimal for aid climbing. Apr 24, 2017 · Wipe off the extra cam lube Usually this is done with a rag and the purpose is just so it doesn’t spread to unwanted areas like the sling or other gear. It’s an active camming device, which the term "active" also distinguishes it from other securing devices. Shop climbing protection. When you release the trigger, the cam lobes expand to fit the rock. Both active and passive pro comes in a variety of sizes, with different numbers or colors corresponding to the size of crack each piece might fit. Climbing cams are essential for your trad climbing rack - check out our full range of cams to create your ideal rack. NOTE: THE EWO MICRO CAM CANNOT BE FLIPPED UPSIDE DOWN Sep 20, 2013 · The patent for CCH (Colorado Custom Hardware) Alien Cams (small flexible cams mostly used for big wall / aid climbing), was bought by Fixe-Faders. The beefiness mentioned above makes them great for aid climbing, and the thumb loop lets you clip in higher than cams without a thumb loop. Self-cleaning action reduces wear by shedding dirt. Our tests did not show a significant strength advantage for the C4 or the Utralight, both were super good enough. Exclusive design which features everything you require of a cam for all-around use with extended capabilities. These also work well on sets of sticks due to their short height, allowing sticks to nest together. Get free delivery on orders over £80. Sep 30, 2015 · Good, solid, single axle cams with a useful double sling design. Aluminum Cam-Matics® are hardcoat-anodized for a high-load, high-wear, continuous adjustment applications. Free shipping over $49 on all rock climbing cams, including black diamond camalots. 75, 1, 2, 3) has wide, rock-friendly cam lobes, high-friction machined faces Check out our range of climbing anchors and camalots that will keep you safe and protected while crack and trad climbing. They acquired all the machinery and knowledge to produce the same cam, and do so today, keeping the same cam name. Sep 9, 2013 · I really like this climbing cam in some applications but am not ready to commit my whole rack to them like I have with the Black Diamond Camalot for the bigger sizes. Aid Climbing. 3. but action, range, lever/trigger usage). 95” This statement, taken from Rock Empire's website, could stop a trad climber's heart and simultaneously empty his wallet (they're so cheap, I can afford more!). 11/16 Nylon Webbing and 14mm Spectra® Webbing is available (they do not carry 12mm Dyneema). Check out our great prices and latest deals! The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. The size 1 Dragonfly is (as of 2019) the smallest certified climbing cam on the market. As with many single axle designs, they feel a little 'old-school'. Cam for cam, the Master Cams are lighter than almost every other brand. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. 4. IF MAILING IN CAMS FOR REPAIR - PLEASE SEND USPS TO: Runout Customs PO Box 751 Moab, UT 84532 MAIL IN INSTRUCTIONS: After submitting the Cam Repair form, mail in your cams in via USPS to the above address. May 3, 2011 · Additionally, the range on these cams is among the lowest of all the cams that we tested making it necessary to carry more cams if you're building your rack completely of Friends. It almost singlehandedly ushered in the modern free-climbing era, making it much safer to try the parallel-sided splitter cracks that had heretofore been all but unprotectable using nuts and Hexes. Black Diamond. Mar 13, 2018 · Climber’s Best Friend | The first camming device ever made for trad climbing newly redesigned for the modern vertical world. Easily compare different types of climbing gear! Including cams, nuts, hexes, and more! Compare different climbing cams. Oct 9, 2015 · A new cam by Denver mechanical engineer Evan Deis is among the biggest ever built. Free shipping on many items | Browse your favorite brands | affordable prices. Power Cams feature an optimized cam angle for greater holding power, and wider cam faces for more grip. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. com. The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam just got better. Other full-sized climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Black Diamond Ultralight Cams, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. However, such placements should be avoided if possible because the force exerted on cam components and the rock is greatly increased, which could lead to rock/cam failure or simply a small slide Nov 17, 2010 · Also, don't forget to check out our Best Climbing Cam Review. Our cams tend to get the most beat up during aid climbs, where every piece gets weighted, often in strange positions pushing the limits of their designs. Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. Axel Plus - Double axle Cams - Size: 2-6 - Price: From £45 or Set of 5 cams £260 (The Power Cams & Super Cams in this graph are shown with my hand-measured protection size range so those parts of the graph are shaped a little differently due to the higher protection end being truncated. “I have cams Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. Written by Stephen Regenold Oct 09, 2015 11:19 a. Read the review: Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams: Otherworldly friends to have on your rack. For me, trad leading is much more enjoyable with newer cams. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. Part of what makes the Aliens stick so well in little placements is the soft metal, so there is a pro and a con there. Step 4 – Test Test the cam hook’s stability by applying a little extra force than bodyweight in any conceivable direction of pull. With six sizes to choose from, including three versatile sizes that can be used as passive anchors, the Alien X Cam is a climbing classic that you won't want to be without. The six colour-coded units cover placements from 7. Climbing cams (A. Before peeing on your partner’s cam, try the standard method: Clean it in warm, soapy water, and then lube the moving parts with WD-40, bike-chain lube, or a climbing-specific lube. Apr 11, 2019 · While climbing at Indian Creek, our testers would strategically place cams without thumb loops down low, saving their C4s for higher when they had to contend with the mega pump. One interesting thing we discovered is that placing the cams fully open resulted in significantly higher overall strength. camming devices, also known as climbing friends, or more correctly Spring Loaded Camming Devices) are pieces of rock climbing equipment that fit into parallel-sided or even slightly flared cracks to provide protection. Insert the cam into the crack and release the trigger to allow the lobes to expand and contact the rock. This will prevent a rope from “zippering” out the gear if it comes under tension. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. To place a cam, unclip the appropriate size cam from your harness or gear sling and pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Carefully weight it. K. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. More info: DMM Website Placing Cams. Tricams are not as reliable as cams in parallel-sided, vertical cracks, since the fulcrum needs a small dimple or constriction to 'rest' on. Feb 12, 2024 · Steve Levin, in Climbing No. Add Cams. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam. nsfem ftceh jebex lzfsri utmiil reg igvuba edpxct qerca ytu dppuh ujqxsf xdhzh udpuo lvroqo